Removing the Gear Set From a Ford 9" UPDATED

Removing the Gear Set From a Ford 9"

Now that you have the wheel ends and axle shafts sorted out, you tin concentrate on the 3rd member and pinion cartridge. Yous can remove the pinion cartridge from the third member while the third member is still in identify on the housing, but the order does not matter, particularly if you know that you are going to upgrade the pinion cartridge to the larger Daytona-style bearing support.

As a matter of fact, mostly, there is no reason to re-utilize the stock third member for whatsoever performance-fashion vehicle when so many stronger nodular units are available in the aftermarket. Chances are that you will exist replacing everything unless yous are doing a stock rebuild.

---

This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, FORD DIFFERENTIALS: HOW TO REBUILD THE eight.8 AND nine INCH. For a comprehensive guide on this entire field of study y'all can visit this link:

Larn MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK Hither

SHARE THIS Commodity: Please feel gratuitous to share this post on Facebook / Twitter / Google+ or any automotive Forums or blogs y'all read. You tin utilize the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: https://world wide web.diyford.com/ford-9-inch-beam-disassembly-third-fellow member-pinion-cartridge-removal/

---

Step-1: Remove Fill Plug

Before proceeding, remove the fill up plug. This item example is total of dirt and crud. Use a modest flathead screwdriver or selection to make clean information technology out, so that a iii/8-inch square drive fits properly. Here, the 3/8-inch bulldoze was non tapped all the way in place. Most 3/8-inch extensions have a spring-loaded ball that helps agree the socket in place. Exist sure that yous tap in and fully seat the extension. If not, the plug starts to strip out equally shown hither.

Step-2: Remove Pinion Cartridge

V bolts concord the pinion cartridge in place. Use a ratchet and socket or wrench to remove them. The pinion cartridgesupports the pinion bearings and the pinion itself, plus a shim also resides between the cartridge and the housing. This shim sets the pinion mounting depth. Typical shim sizes range from .008 to .021 inch with the nominal thickness being .015.

Use a hammer and dial to tap on the pinion in a few different spots to help free it. Keep in mind that the cartridge is held very tightly in the housing and needs to come out straight. Be careful to not tilt the unit. As well be careful non to pry on the cartridge too aggressively. Endless tabs have been cracked off, turning these cartridges into scrap. Some other option is to adhere a slide hammer to the pinion yoke to remove the cartridge.

Stride-two (Connected): Remove Pinion Cartridge (Precision Measurement, Documentation  Required)

The O-ring is still in place on the pinion cartridge. The pinion depth shim is hanging most the pinion. Go on rails of this shim if you lot are going to re-use the gear set. Fifty-fifty if you become with a new gear set, you lot should determine the thickness of this old shim for reference. The deviation from nominal is marked on some gears on the pinion head, and then the correct shim thickness can be hands determined. This marking isn't always present, so yous may demand to practice some research in service manuals or literature from new-gear providers.

Step-iii: Inspect Pinion Trunnion

Once the pinion has been removed, you lot have your fi rst look at the ring gear and the internals of the gear instance. Audit the pinion straddle back up and retainer. Clean the pinion trunnion of any gear oil and debris. The trunnion should be round and smoothen without any signs of grooves or gouges. This unit still has the bearing and retainer in place and they wait okay. Examine the pinion trunnion for any signs of wear. Also having sludgy appearing oil, this  unit is in good condition. The oil appears to take been contaminated with h2o and is thicker (like pudding) and has a grayish color.

This is a worn pinion trunnion. This pinion needs to exist scrapped. Since the hypoid gears are a matched ready, both ring and pinion gears need to be replaced. Y'all tin employ a speedi-sleeve to attempt to relieve a gear gear up. Still, if the gear set has plenty wearable to impairment this surface area of the pinion, it necessitates replacing the gear set.

Step-4: Inspect Pinion Straddle-Mounted Bearing Back up

Severe overloading has cracked this pinion straddle-mounted bearing support. This unit also had enough deflection from excessive torque and so that the gear teeth climbed over one another and pushed the differential case through the begetting caps. This is a attestation to why you want to apply a nodular tertiary member for whatsoever high-performance applications.

Footstep-5: Disassemble Pinion Cartridge

This is a typical pinion flange puller tool that tin can exist purchased, but you tin hands make 1 (see folio 50). In gild to loosen the pinion nut, yous can use an impact gun or yous can use a tool to hold the flange stationary while loosening the nut. The touch on gun works fine, but needs a means to concord the flange later during re-assembly.

Bolting the fl ange-holding tool to the fl ange with two bolts stops it from rotating with a breaker bar. Utilize the correctsize socket forth with another breaker bar to loosen the pinion nut. The pinion nut is very tight and then you may need to use some torque to pause it loose. Don't be shy; utilise ample force to loosen the nut.

Step-6: Pull Flange from Pinion

The flange-holder tool likewise acts as a flange puller. Typically the pinion flange spline has a slight helix built into it. This helix takes out any potential backfire in the spline and minimizes clunk. This helix too makes information technology difficult to remove and install the flange, so a puller is required to remove the flange. Use a two-jaw puller or even a harmonic balancer puller. Attach information technology to the flange and apply the appropriate forcefulness.

Step-seven: Alphabetize Pinion and Flange

Remove the nut then use a paint pen to mark the flange and the pinion where they come up in contact. This properly indexes these parts for re-assembly. Or you tin brand light dimples with a center punch, which will not be removed when you clean the parts in solvent. In some cases, the flanges are balanced every bit a complete axle associates so you demand to reassemble them in the right alignment. Otherwise, the axle assembly is out of balance and tin create excessive vibration in the vehicle. Patently, if you are changing the ratio, you don't need to worry virtually this.

Footstep-8: Remove Pinion from Cartridge

The pinion head bearing is nevertheless pressed on the pinion shaft. Y'all tin can meet the stock collapsible spacer sitting on the splines. The bearing races or cones are notwithstanding pressed into the cartridge. Knock out the pinion seal to get the tail bearing out with a hammer and punch from the back side. When these parts have been pressed apart, the basic organisation of the parts looks like this. Some units have an oil slinger between the tail bearing and the seal. If you are replacing the bearings, apply a hammer and punch to remove the races from the cartridge. Make sure that the cartridge is fully supported on the main round body portion of the casting and not the weaker mounting tabs,which tin can easily cleft off.

Two different manner bearing pullers are available on the marketplace. Both work well. The clam-beat out unit (above) is a special tool designed merely for pinions. The adequately common begetting splitter way (top) is more than versatile and economic.

Step-9: Remove Gears from 3rd Fellow member

The begetting caps are machined in place with the gear case. You volition need to return them to their original position and orientation (as with the 8.viii-inch beam and engine main bearing caps). To assistance with this, I recommend stamping them with numbers. (I accept highlighted my numbers in yellow in this photo to help them stand out.) Or you can use dimples; ane for one side and two for the other side. Then remove them.

Step-ten: Remove Keepers

Differential bearings are preloaded; large adjuster basics set the ring gear mounting distance. The adjuster basics have a positive anti-rotation feature: keepers that are bolted to the bearing cap. Remove the bolt.

Pace-10: Remove Keepers (Continued)

The keeper is U-shaped and fi ts into the pigsty in the adjuster nut. Movement the keeper out of the adjuster nut pigsty by sliding out the keeper tab.

Step-11: Remove Begetting Bolts and Caps

Employ a standard socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the four bolts that secure the differential bearings in place. Notice that I stuck one of the axle shafts into the differential to help hold the third fellow member from rotating. An bear upon gun also can be used to loosen these bolts.

Stride-12: Remove Adjuster Nut (Disquisitional Inspection)

Once the caps have been removed, loosen the adjuster nut. Usually, y'all can unthread it by hand. If the adjuster nut is stubbornly attached and you lot don't want to invest in special tools, apply a couple screw drivers in ii of the holes to loosen it. Closely inspect the inner surface of the adjuster nut where it meets the differential bearing cup. Oftentimes at that place is a slight habiliment groove in the adjuster. This tin can be erased with a few passes of a fine-tooth 1½-inch-wide fl at file. Yous want to make certain that the surface is as fl at as possible.

In that location are two available nuts for 9-inch axles. The viii-inch and small nine-inch nuts have the same exterior diameter. The two.891-inch nut is shown on the left while the 3.063-inch nut is shown on the correct, which is standard for 31-spline axles and the 93⁄8-inch. The three.250- inch (not shown) is the typical aftermarket version for large spline counts. Both sizes accept the same thread pitch and number of notches. This ways that indexing the nut a single notch of rotational motion equals .005 inch of axial movement.

Step-13: Remove Differential from Gear Case

Here the begetting caps and bolts, along with the adjuster nuts and differential begetting cups, take been removed. At present just grab the differential example and elevator information technology out of the gear case.

Step-xiv: Inspect Gear Instance

Close inspection of the internal components and the case normally uncovers whatever sign of business organization, such as cracks. If the internal components are worn excessively and the instance is questionable, it may make sense to Magnaflux the instance or only replace it with a new nodular unit of measurement for any functioning application. You can as well remove and supersede the pinion support pocket bearing. The begetting is held in place with a metal servant. If you lot are careful and don't deform the metal ring, yous can re-use it. See page 97 for a picture of the sheet metallic bearing retainer.

This exploded view of a traditional open differential shows the club of parts including flange (1), shim (3 and 4), and pinion gear (9). The open differential uses mutual side gears while the Traction-Lok differentials use two different side gears (five). This differential is similar to the unit that I volition detach, but this one has iv pinions instead of two (8). The additional pinions increment the torque-carrying capacity of this differential. This differential also has boosted corresponding whorl pins (half dozen), a differential pin support block (vii), and differential pins (two). (Analogy Courtesy Currie Enterprises)

This open differential carries two pinions. The pinion shaft is held in identify with a single curl pin, which can exist seen hither at the 12 o'clock position, but below the ring gear inside diameter.

Stride-xv: Drive Out Roll Pivot

Utilise the appropriate-size punch to bulldoze out the curl pin. You can utilise a long, 1/iv-inch punch. You can remove the pin now or expect until the band is removed. The guild doesn't matter.

Pace-16: Remove Ring Gear

Remove the ring gear and then you can remove the gear itself from the differential case. This is but a matter of removing the ten bolts. These bolts are tight and require 80 ft-lbs or more of torque to remove. You lot can use an affect gun for this performance.

Place the differential on a cake of wood or something soft to catch the gear. With a hammer, hit the dial to drive the ring gear through the lesser of the ring gear commodities holes. Make sure the punch is contacting the gear itself and not the threads on the side. Never striking the gear straight with a hammer. This volition surely damage the gear and force replacement.

Footstep-17: Carve up Differential Case Halves

The differential instance halves should come apart easily. Since this is an open differential, there are no other fasteners or clutch pack preload to overcome to separate them. If your unit is difficult to separate, and this ane was quite stubborn, you lot may demand to resort to some persuasion with a hammer. Lightly tap the differential at the split line and alternate around the differential. Be conscientious as the casting differential is soft and you don't want to dent it. If there are any dents or dings, make certain to file them smooth before re-associates. Some mechanics mark the halves for clocking purposes, but the open differential only re-assembles in one way based on the orientation of the differential ringlet pivot.

Step-18: Inspect Instance Internals

In one case the case halves have been separated, y'all tin can meet the internals. You lot can see the side gear on the left case half and the 2 pinions with the differential pin nonetheless in place on the right half. These pinions trap the other side'due south gear in identify. Be sure to wait for signs of wear and scoring on both halves.

;

Stride-nineteen: Remove Differential Pivot

Remove the differential pin then the pinions come out. This pin was stuck in position and required some persuasion with a hammer and punch. The pin should slide out with mitt pressure. The fact that this pivot was then difficult to remove indicates worn ridges.

Step-20: Open Differential

All of the components removed from the open differential are shown here. They are arranged to show both sides of the pinions and side gears. Also annotation that in that location are hardened washers behind each side gear and pinion gear. These protect the softer cast-fe differential example from the gears wearing into them excessively.

Step-21: Audit Pinion Washers

This is the inside surface of i of the pinion washers. Information technology is where the gear runs. Vesture and debris contamination led to the washer'southward gouged wearable surface. When this amount of clothing is found, the washers should exist replaced and I recommend replacing the entire differential. For a performance build, you want some type of express-slip differential anyway.

Step-22: Inspect Differential Pins

This differential pivot shows signs of clothing, and the pinion bores are merely every bit worn. Under close exam, this pin actually has a step and gouges in the area where the pinions run. This kind of wear is commonly found when a differential has been installed in a vehicle that has been exposed to excessive tire spin. This excessive tire spin causes a highspeed difference between the pinion gear and this shaft, which definitely needs replacing.

Written past Joe Palazzolo and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc

Go A Bargain ON THIS Volume!

If you lot liked this article you will LOVE the total volume. Click the button below and we will ship you an sectional bargain on this book.

DOWNLOAD HERE

Removing the Gear Set From a Ford 9" UPDATED

Posted by: martinaambegrout.blogspot.com